Many travellers have to take a trip to Vientiane for a night or so on what’s called a visa run to remain in Thailand (neighbouring country) with the correct Thai visa for a set period of time.
I’ve visited Vientiane in Laos on many occasions for visa applications at the Thai Embassy that’s near Vientiane city and not too far from the Thai border.
While Vientiane is not an exciting and thrill-driven place to stop off on your travels compared to Thailand, it’s a very relaxing environment with decent places to eat, and there’s enough to do and see for a couple of days or so.
I’m always curious about Laos (some things are next to the same as Thailand while others are quite different) and its people, which is why I always stay a few days while other visa runners flee back to Thailand straight away. Part of the relaxing vibe gets my attention as well.
Getting to Vientiane from Thailand
Most visitors arrive in Vientiane from Chiang Mai or Bangkok. There are various forms of transport from Chiang Mai, including taking a flight, boat, bus or minivan. There is no direct flight I know of as yet, but you can fly to Udon Thani and take a short bus or minivan trip from Udon to the Nong Khai border (the quickest option).
Boats (I don’t like the reports on them) and buses or minivans go to the border from Chiang Mai, but they’re a long journey (12 hours).
From Bangkok, there are much better options, including a direct flight to Vientiane. I have flown in the past to Udon Thani (cheap) and then took the minivan that takes about an hour to get to the Nong Khai border.
The last couple of Vientiane visits I did were via train. The train has now been upgraded and is much more comfortable than the older types that recently did the Bangkok to Nong Khai trip. More about the Nong Khai train from Bangkok here.
It’s a well-trodden path going to the Thai embassy in Vientiane from Bangkok via train that helps new visa runners because you just need to follow and/or ask the other westerners en route. More about what goes on when you arrive at the Thai Embassy here…and your Thai visa.
Hotels and Guesthouses
Vientiane has plenty of options for various budgets. I have found if I budget at around 1000 THB the hotel is poor in quality. About 1500 – 2500 THB gets a traveller something much better.
I’ve stayed near the fountain and the river a few times…and prefer to be near the riverside much more. If you are budgeting then staying just back from the river gets a little cheaper or better for the money.
The last place I stayed was Champa Garden Hotel, and it was a nice stay for 3 nights. Close to the river, a lovely garden area, restaurants I like very near and the management were helpful when I had minor problems with the room. The cost was about 1600 THB (50 USD) which was fair based on my past Vientiane experiences.
You do need a well-staffed hotel in Vientiane or at least good management. In my experience, Vientiane does not have the same level of service as I get in Thailand. I am accustomed to the politeness in Thailand that when I go to Vientiane I just can’t work out why so many staff members are so vacant-minded (I feel sorry for them as they are their in body but their mind has taken a holiday).
Restaurants – Eating Out
There are many restaurants near the riverside and surrounding area that I find best for Thai/Laos food rather than western. I have a few places I can recommend, but Vientiane is kind of one of those places to just walk around and find a place that looks appealing to the eyes and appetite.
There are two places i like near the hotel i stayed at Champa Garden (Rue Francois Ngin – street) that Ive visited over the years. These are both standard Laos restaurants that are the cheapest type and great for a beer Laos stop off.
Ban Laos Restaurant
Ban Laos on Rue Francois Ngin is a good stop-off place after arriving in Vientiane after a visit to the Thai Embassy. It’s a place for Thai/Laos food and a cold beer Laos (beer is cheap).
The owner who has been running the establishment for many years, is really friendly with customers.
Ms. Manivone Restaurant
Ms. Manvivone, just a little further up Rue Francois Ngin St, is another popular standard local type restaurant. On this occasion, I ate their Laos steak beef which is just a really nice beef stir fry with vegetables. The restaurant is even more standard in terms of the seating and tables etc., but the food is really good, and again cheap beer Laos is served cold.
Khop Chai Deu Restauarnt
Khop Chai Deu is a place I have eaten at a couple of times and really enjoyed the food and the restaurant atmosphere. It’s popular for travellers and has plenty of recommendations on TripAdvisor. It can get a bit overcrowded because of its popularity, but it’s a good option and fairly priced.
Papao Restaurant & Bar
I had never tried this place before. This was because it was so close to the riverside and tourist area i have always tried to venture out.
I tried out a good few dishes this time on two occasions, and it was really good. Isan (northeast Thailand) food was lovely, and great tom yam soup.
Other Restaurants
I did eat at a fair few other places on this visit that I won’t mention….I cannot recommend them. I previously liked the Lebanese place, but after this last visit, I shall not return…it was a poor experience in every way possible.
Things To Do – Attractions
Eat and drink mostly…
There are not a large number of things to do and attractions in Vientiane, but relaxing, eating, and drinking seem to be the main flavour here.
There are a few temple visits (Wat Si Saket) you can do around the city, but nothing special if you have seen Thai temples. I did not get along to the Cope visitors centre that I would have liked to visit, which you can take a look at the reviews on tripadvisor here.
It’s worth hiring a bicycle for the day and wandering around the city as a relaxing pass time and to see the temples and also stop off for food.
Buddha Park
On this occasion, I did the Buddha Park trip on the day I had to pick up my visa and passport from the Embassy. I spoke with another guy at the hotel, and we both agreed it was Ok…so it wasn’t great, but it wasn’t bad either. It’s more about the travelling out on the rough roads there for an hour that can bring down the feeling of how nice it is than the park itself. The park and the statues are beautiful, and it’s a great place for taking pictures.
Night Market & Mekong
On the evening the night market in front of the Mekong river is a popular place to go for a stroll and see the local Laotian people hanging out. Great to have a walk here before heading to a restaurant to eat out for the evening.
This area and side of the Mekong in the evening is nowhere near as beautiful as the Thai Nong Khai side, but it’s still lovely at sunset.
Coffee Shops
A great thing about Vientiane is the coffee shops. There are plenty of coffee shops and great coffee, which was probably influenced by the french.
Massage
Another thing to do, especially if you have been on foot for the day, is to get a massage. It’s very similar to Thailand in terms of massage types. It is quite varied in quality and too difficult for me to suggest any because staff change, and some places, just like Thailand, can be a bit hit and miss in terms of quality. It’s more expensive than in Thailand for a massage but still fairly cheap.
Bars & Clubs
Bor Pen Nyang is the most popular bar for travellers I have been to in Vientiane that has a view of the river with food and alcohol sold there. It gets busy from about 9pm – 1am.
The other place worth a visit for a drink is Samlo Pub. I like it there because of its pub look and feel.
There are always a couple of nightclubs if you need to party and dance. Rather than me add anything that will become outdated shortly, I would suggest you ask in any of the above two bars which is the best club to go to that night. They’re only a short tuk-tuk journey from the riverside.
While Vientiane is not the Best…..
Although Vientiane is not the most exciting place in southeast Asia ‘by a long shot’, a couple of nights stay is very relaxing and not a bad place just to take it easy if you have been on the road and need to take it easy.
Otherwise, just do your visa run, chill for the night, and get back to the ‘land of smiles’.